Winter Is Coming (to Split)

In case you didn't know, Game of Thrones filmed a decent amount of scenes in Croatia. I know no one cares about Game of Thrones anymore after the terrible last season killed off about as many fans as the show killed off characters, but it's a fun fact. Ironically, we got to Split in November, meaning...

When people think of Croatia, I imagine they think of beautiful sunsets, blue skies, party boats littering the Adriatic Sea, long lines for touristy Game of Thrones film locations as well as bars and restaurants that overlook the water. They probably imagine partying on Hvar and being out in the sun and working on their tans. That all sounds great (except the lines). However, we weren't there for that. We were there at the beginning of winter and Split's offseason. This translated to no lines (which was great) but also meant all the ridiculous parties on and around the water were closed for the year. You'd think this would be a bummer but I actually found it quite enjoyable. While it did get a little boring at times because there was so much that WAS closed, Split itself was really pretty. A seaside town that sort of felt like you were in Italy. There was plenty of fresh seafood and while Croatian wine might not have the rep as some of its European counterparts, it was pretty delicious in its own right. I definitely drank more wine than beer or any other alcohol whilst in Split and the sleepy offseason made our stop feel more like a month long sabbatical than a digital nomad stop.

Despite being there for the beginning of winter, the views Split offered were still incredible and we were lucky to live right by the water. For the first time since Lima I could run alongside a coastline, a very quick jaunt from our apartment. The sunsets were amazing, arguably some of my favorites of Remote Year. It could get windy and there were some rains as well and we definitely endured a few strong storms that came through but overall, Split was a nice, relaxing escape from the hustle and bustle of traditional cities and it felt like an extended weekend vacation in a coastal town.

There were pros and cons to the food. I'm not a huge seafood person so I'd dabble in the fresh seafood which was great but I preferred meat and the beef never tasted right. It didn't taste bad, just different from what I am used to. I actually wound up eating a lot more charcuterie in Split than previous stops, mainly because our apartments were not close to town so we relied on a supermarket for most of our meals and snacks. I had a lot of bread, cheese, and salami during my stay. I did really like the local dish of cevapi that Croatia and Bosnia both take credit for. It's basically sausage (beef, pork, or lamb) wrapped in a big piece of dough served with hot sauce or a yogurt substance. It sounds like a glorified hot dog but it's so much better. As mentioned, the wines were pretty good and they have their own wine country as well (I didn't visit it but heard a lot about it!) and I had some of the best chocolate and wine pairings on the trip in Split as well. Seriously, if you're ever in Split get some Nadalina chocolate. It's so good!

Croatia was a mellow month for the most part but we did find some time to visit some of GoT locations. In Split itself, you can visit the site of Mereen by going to the Klis Fortress. It's not too far from the city center and you can hike around it for a couple hours. You can also find Daenerys's throne room in the city center itself, among the ruins of the Diocletian Palace. There's a market in the main area nowadays put if you are eagle eyed you can spot where she locked her dragons up and see where people came to ask her favors. There's also a Game of Thrones museum in the city. Did I mention that the major part of the city (old town) is inside a palace? There are tons of bars, restaurants, and shops within the palace walls. It's quite cool to walk through the alleyways and get yourself lost. You stumble upon many cool storefronts and just the architecture of the palace itself is awe-inspiring. It truly feels like shopping in a castle... because it is! However, the most popular tourist location for Game of Thrones fans is in Dubrovnik. Dubrovnik is about a 2.5 hour drive from Split and the drive itself is very pretty along the coastline. You pass in and out of Bosnia for a bit which is odd, but cool, but DO remember to bring your passport! Dubrovnik is where they shot all the scenes for Kings Landing and you feel like you're in the GoT universe once you enter into Dubrovnik. It's gorgeous and the sea is crystal clear. I'll add some photos here but if you ever find yourself in Croatia, I highly recommend spending at least a day in Dubrovnik. You won't regret it.

Aside from all the Game of Thrones stuff, there was of course other cool things to do. Catch a sunset on Marjan Hill. Take a ferry to one of the islands. Absolutely most definitely go to Plitvice National Park and see the epic waterfalls and go to Krka Falls and compare and contrast which ones you like better. Depending on the season, you can swim at Krka whereas you cannot at Plitvice. I preferred Plitvice over Krka but make the trek to both. It is well worth it. And do yourself a favor and eat Peka, a style of cooking where they cook meats and vegetables under a bell-shaped lid that come out super tender. Finally, support local craft beer! Split doesn't have many. In fact, they may just have one. Go have a tour at their brewery and support them. They're cool guys!

Overall, on the -5 to 5 scale, I'd give Split a solid 2. I would love to go back in high season. I really enjoyed being on the coast and seeing beautiful sunsets every single evening. If you're a traveler and like to cram in countries, you can take a drive to Bosnia like me and my boys did. We went and stayed in Sarajevo for a few nights and got to experience Bosnian nightlife. They are some heavy duty smokers so be prepared for that. Every bar or restaurant reeks of cigarette smoke but it was pretty cool to literally stand on the sidewalk where Franz Ferdinand was assassinated.

Go to Split. Enjoy it. If you go in the winter, be prepared for things to be closed. It doesn't mean you can't enjoy it. It's peaceful and pretty. I definitely hope to be back when the weather is warmer and to eat plenty of cevapi and Nadalina chocolate!

Here are some of my photos from Split:

Sampling of epic sunsets: